This site is aimed at helping the new reptile owner choose the perfect pet for them and answer some common questions. Click here for a list of snakes and lizards that make good first reptile pets.
Before getting a reptile, you have to consider some things:
1. What size and type of enclosure will you need? PLAN FOR THE FUTURE!
2. What will you feed your animal?
3. How will you heat the enclosure?
4. Do you have a vet that specializes in reptiles?
5. What will the substrate be?
6. Where will your animal come from?
1. What size and type of enclosure will you need? PLAN FOR THE FUTURE!
Learn what size cage your snake or lizard will need - as an adult - before buying it! Different species have vastly different requirements. A corn snake or leopard gecko would be fine in a 20-gallon long tank. A boa constrictor needs something at least 4ftx2ft. Iguanas and monitor lizards need huge areas - ideally, a spare room! Most of the beginner snakes and lizards listed don't need very big areas. A good rule of thumb for snakes is that for every foot of snake, the tank should have a square foot of floor space. This means that an 8-ft snake would be in a minimum of a 4x2 enclosure - though I would make it at least 6x2. Also learn the habits of the animal. A lizard or snake that lives in the trees would need a taller enclosure than a ground-dweller.
All enclosures are not created equal. I will go over each of the major types and list pros and cons for each, and places to get them.
1. Glass aquariums. These are the most popular type of caging. They are easy to come by, and are mid-priced. The problems with these are that it is difficult to keep high humidity, and you need to find a secure top. Twin Oaks
2. Storage Containers. These are the least attractive of the bunch, and also the cheapest. They are good for housing large numbers of small to mid-sized snakes. Get these at your local discount store.
3. Melamine cages. Melamine is particle board covered with a layer of plastic. These cages look very nice, and are also a favorite among do-it-yourselfers. If sealed correctly, melamine cages will last for years and keep humidity in well. The downside to melamine is that is VERY heavy, and if not sealed right, the particle board will swell up and the cage will be ruined. These cages are also expensive. Showcase Cages
4. Wood cages. These and melamine cages, if done well, look very nice. You wouldn't be ashamed to have one in your dining room. Wood cages need to be sealed all around, or else the wood will soak up whatever is on it, swell, stink, rot, and all other unsightly and cage-ruining affects. Expensive, also. Hall's Herps and Custom Caging
5. Plastic. These cages seem to be getting more and more popular, and for good reason. They come in all kinds of sizes and are fairly priced. Boaphile Plastics, BARRS cages, Vision Herpetological, Precision Caging
2. What will you feed your animal?
Most snakes eat mice - almost all of the commonly kept ones do. Snakes eat from every 4 or so days, up to every month. They can live without food for even longer than that. Read up on the specific feeding schedule for your snake, ie., don't feed a hatchling corn snake every month. Rodent size is determined by the girth of the animal. Guidelines are: feed a prey item that is as big around as your snake - slightly larger and slightly smaller are OK, depending on species. I don't ever recommend feeding a snake live mice, except in the case that it will not eat otherwise. Most snakes will accept pre-killed or frozen/thawed rodents. The reasons for not feeding live mice are simple: live mice can injure or kill your snake, plus transmit diseases. It is also cheaper to buy frozen rodents in bulk than to go to your local pet store every week to pick up food. Places to buy feeder rodents: Cajun Mice, Rodent Pro, The Gourmet Rodent. Note that the shipping of these will be quite high - I recommend buying at least 3 months supply at a time, and possibly finding someone to order with to split shipping cost. If you have a local herpetological society, see if there is any mouse or rat breeders near you. You may be able to save on shipping altogether.
Most lizards eat bugs. The ones that don't - notably iguanas - are not beginner pets. Bugs are usually crickets and mealworms. Lizards usually need to be fed a couple time a week. Feeding habits vary among the different species, but guidelines are crickets should be fed supplement before feeding to your lizard (gutloading) and should be dusted in vitamin powder every couple of feedings.
3. How will you heat the enclosure?
Lizards and snakes are cold-blooded and dependent on the surrounding temperature to survive. Too low or too high of temperatures cause illness and death. Common ways of heating enclosures are by heat lamps, heat pads, and heat tape. Whatever you choose, stay AWAY from heat rocks. They can have "hot spots" on their surface that exceed 130°F. Many burns are caused by heat rocks. Reptiles need a hot and a cool side to their cage, so remember to set it up accordingly. Buy two thermometers to measure temps. People aren't very good at that. :) What do you do if the heat is too hot? If you use a heat lamp, try and get a lower wattage bulb. I find that a 25 watt bulb is all that is needed to bring a 20gL up to 85-90°F. With heat tape and heat pads, invest in a cheap lamp dimmer, or a thermostat made for this purpose. (well, actually for growing plants, but...) More about heat lamps: these animals don't like the light on all the time. If you need to use a lamp 24 hours a day, use either ceramic heat emitters or colored light bulbs (red or black, marketed for reptiles). Don't use black lights made for parties - the light is harmful to your animal.
4. Do you have a vet that specializes in reptiles?
You may balk at the thought of taking a $10 animal to the vet, but it is a responsibility that comes with ownership. Most dog-and-cat vets no nothing about reptiles, and their lack of knowledge can cost your pet their life. Go to the Herp Vet Connection to help you find a vet in your area with reptile experience. You never know when you may need some help.
5. What will the substrate be?
There are a multitude of substrates that you could use for your reptile. Newspaper and paper towels are the safest, but they don't look very nice. Aspen is a good choice for snakes, as is cypress mulch. I haven't used bed-a-beast, but some people say it works good, others say it is too dusty. Under no circumstances should you use sand or cedar shavings for your snake. Sand irritates the belly scales and gets in the nostrils and vent of your snake. CEDAR is toxic and will cause neurological damage and eventually kill your snake. Also stay away from corncob. It dries out the tissues and gets moldy and smells when wet. When using particulate substrate, either feed in a separate container or watch over you snake to ensure it doesn't ingest any substrate, which could lead to impaction and death.
For lizards, it is a little different. Sand is usually alright for adults, but it is recommended to keep younger lizards on paper towel. The substrate you use will depend on the animal. You shouldn't keep a rainforest animal on sand, or a desert animal on moist substrate.
6. Where will your animal come from?
Your answer to this question can determine the starting health of your new pet. There are two aspects of this answer: breeder or pet store, captive born vs. wild caught. I prefer to buy my animals direct from a breeder. The prices are lower, the health is usually better, and you have a more detailed background on the animal. Places to find breeders are through the internet, classified ads, herp societies, and reptile shows. Pet stores are more familiar to people, but they have the reputation of not knowing anything about the reptiles they sell, and selling sick and dying animals. Unfortunately, this is not undeserved. PetCo in particular has a habit of having horrible conditions in their store.
Second issue: Wild caught vs. Captive Bred. It is recommended to buy captive born animals. All of the listed beginner animals are commonly bred. The reasons not to buy wild caught - besides not depeleting populations - are to ensure that you have a healthy animal. Wild caught animals usually carry parasites that can cause all sorts of problems. Also, they may have a bad temperment, and do not adjust well to captivity. Be wary of ball pythons especially. Wild caught balls are notorious for not eating - and most ball pythons you see in pet shops are wild caught.